October 18, 2012


Peak 41 Expedition

In October/November 2012 Jack Geldard and ROB GREENWOOD  will be on the Hongu Valley, Nepal on an expedition to attempt the first ascent of the North Face of Peak 41.
The mountain has only seen one ‘official’ ascent and this was via its more accessible south face by a Slovenian Expedition, this is to be the first attempt from the more remote north side.

Expeditions organizing by Loben Expeditions. 

October 6, 2012


Loben Expeditions - autumn expedition landed Lukla and heading for chamlang Base camp, from where a team of 06 will attempt CHAMLANG, PEAK 41  and HUNKU peak.

Team successful reached Lukla this morning though we had to use different means to get into Lukla, some by flight, some by helicopter and all the baggages' by MI -17. Naomi and Jill with Palden were booked to fly to Phaplu an alternative airstrip to Lukla but luckly weather at Lukla got clear and the flight landed at Lukla, which saved them 03 days of walking to get into Lukla.

May 25, 2012

Survivor of Mount Everest disaster blames overcrowding

A survivor of Mount Everest's worst disaster in eight years has blamed overcrowding on the world's highest peak for his friend's death last weekend.

Song Young-il, 47, of Daejoen, South Korea, told the Daily Telegraph he and his friend Song Wong-bin suffered snow blindness, delirium, and hypothermia as they waited four hours for more than 300 climbers to pass.
When they finally continued their descent, Song Wong-bin collapsed in the notorious section of Everest known as the 'dead zone' for its perilous conditions.

His comments come amid growing concern over the increased risks posed by 'over-climbing' on the mountain during the narrow window between April and June when it briefly becomes surmountable.

Song Wong-bin, 44, was one of four climbers who died last Saturday after reaching the peak early in the morning. A German doctor, a Nepali-Canadian businesswoman from Mumbai and a Chinese man were also killed in poor weather conditions. Dr Eberhard Schaaf, 62, from Aachen, is understood to have died after being caught in an avalanche, while Wang-yi Fa, and Shriya Shah were killed after being thrown down the slopes by high winds.

Their 'Eco' project was aimed at clearing some of the rubbish which has accumulated on the peak from decades of mountaineering expeditions, including the removal of some dead bodies which had been abandoned on the slopes.On Friday Sherpas were moving the latest four victims to Camp Three and were hoping to send them by helicopter to the Nepali capital Kathmandu.

In a telephone interview from Everest base camp, survivor Song Young-il said he and his friend had reached the summit at 7am with three Sherpas and were making their descent when they became stuck at the perilous 'Hilary's Step', the major obstacle between the summit and South Col, three hours below.

"Then there were so many people. There were 300 to 400 people going to the summit and we got stuck in a traffic jam. We had to wait 200 metres from the summit and we became snow blind. We waited for four hours. We couldn't see.
"We started to come down, slowly, slowly, with the help of our Sherpas. It was hard because we couldn't see anything. It took too long and after that we became crazy," he said.

Loben Sherpa, one of the expedition leaders, explained that as hypothermia and snow blindness set in, the men's brains started 'working unusually.' "At 8500 metres, your brain stops working and you start losing consciousness, because of lack of oxygen, waiting for four hours, hypothermia," he said.

He believes Song Wong-bin's team may have been caught by traffic because they had made their ascent so early and were halted on their way down.

The three Sherpas in their team were helping the climbers down towards South Col on the notorious 'Balcony' when "the other Korean collapsed and died. he died because he had to wait for so long, in my opinion. If you have to wait that long at that altitude it's very dangerous," he said.

The surviving five members of the Korean team were upset, he said, but philosophical. "It's not a good feeling when someone dies, but everyone who comes to Everest knows the risks, it's 50-50 die or live. This area, above South Col, has been recognised as the 'dead zone' and it is very risky," he added.

May 24, 2012

Lhotse summit summary

An early morning call from BC by Budhi Magar (our expedition Cook) "dai,   Dipankar, Rajiv,  Nga Tashi Sherpa and Karma Sherpa summit Mt. Lhotse at 07:00 a.m. We just had communication. They are all in good condition and will be heading back after staying for 15-20 minutes. They will contact again after they will reach last camp - communicate by walkie-talkie from Summit to BC.

Lhotse stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the Souath Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m. 

Dipankar Ghosh and Rajiv is the first civilian to climb Mt. Lhotse from West Bengal. Lhotse is the Last year they summit Mt. Everest with Karma and Furba Shrpa. Nga Tashi climbed Mt Kanchenjunga with Basanta Singha Royand Debasish Biswas last year – which is the first successful West Bengal Kanchenjunga expeditions.

A team of 03 member from west Bengal Dipankar Ghosh, Rajiv Bhattarchary and Soma bhattacharjee set for Mt. Lhotse expedition on April 05, 2012 from Kathmandu and reached Base camp on April 15, 2012. The team after setup all the camps and after undergoing successful acclimatization climb, planned to climb Mt. Lhotse on May 20, 2012. They reached last camp on May 19, but had to retreat back to Camp II due to high wind and unsafe route condition of Mt Lhotse. After a rest of two days in Camp II, team carry on with second plan to summit on May 25, 2012. Three of them along with their 03 Sheraps (Karma, Nga Tashi and Dorjee Sherpa) set off for Camp III on May 23. Soma Bhattarcharya on May 24 had to quit the climb due to her health condition and climbed down to Camp II with Dorjee Sherpa. However, Soma Bhattarchaya is probably the first woman from Bengali Community to reach 8000m and spend a night at last camp of Mt. Lhotse.

Dipankar, Rajiv, Karma and Nga Tashi continue with their climb to last camp on May 24 after few hours of rest at last camp, they carry on with climb and reached the summit of Mt. Lhotse at 07:00 a.m. on May 25. All team members are safe and heading back to Base camp, they will come back to base camp on May 27.  By Loben Sherpa – Expedition Director Loben Expedition, Kathmandu


An early morning call from Budhi Magar (our Expeditions BC Cook) "dai,   Dipankar, Rajiv,  Nga Tashi Sherpa and Karma Sherpa summit Mt. Lhotse at 07:00 a.m. They are all in good condition and will be heading back after staying for 15-20 minutes. They will contact again after they will reach last camp - communicate by walkie-talkie from Summit to BC. 

Congrats. Lhotse team - Dipankar Ghosh and Rajiv Bhattarcharya is the first civilian to climb Mt. Lhotse from West Bengal. Last year they summit Mt. Everest with Karma and Furba Sherpa. Nga Tashi climbed Mt. Kanchenjunga last year with First Bengal Kanchenjunga Expedition. 

May 20, 2012


Kaji Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa of Loben Expedition climb Mt. Everest on 19 May. Kaji Sherpa is the first civilian from Sikkim (a small Himalaya state of India). They successful summit Mt. Everest at 10:15 a.m.came down to south col safely.

Our Nepal counterpart Trekking Camp Nepal Korean team  lost one of  Korean climber after successful. .......................more details to be follow soon.

Our Lhotse expedition reached Camp IV this morning with a  plan to summit tomorrow but since the weather forecast of high wind is expected, the team probably would decide to come back to camp II and the plan for summit attempt on later date. To be safe is always wise...  


Loben Expedition - Everest team summit Mt. Everest at 10:00 a.m. this morning. The team is heading back to Southcol.
Loben Expeditions Lhotse team at camp IV. Team are planning start tonight for summit.

May 15, 2012


Loben Expeditions, after a successful summit of Annapurna I by Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas on April 20, 2012. Not the fastest but made to top in a short time as the team reach Base camp on April 09 and was on top on April 20 and  back to city on April 25.

After a long waiting games as usual, Loben Expeditions - Everest and Lhotse team comprises of Kaji Sherpa from Sikkim, Dipankar Ghosh, Rajiv and Mrs. Soma from Kolkata is heading to camp II. Team will be heading toward Camp III tomorrow and planning to summit on May 18 and May 19. Our Sherpa team - Nga Tashi Sherpa, Karma Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Dorchi Sherpa has completed the load ferry to Camp IV. 

April 19, 2012



Back in the good old days, Tibet and Nepal joined dozens of trade routes passing through the Himalayan passes.

See this wonderful film "The Himalayas"

Then the Chinese cut off to make these traditional routes and hard (up to the shootings) Stopped the movement through the passes.

Nangpa La Pass

Photo Radson

As a result, hundreds of towns and villages situated on the ancient caravan routes, which provided shelter and sustenance for travelers, maintaining trails in passable condition, were out of work, and slowly dying out. One of these towns is the town of Pu (Phu, Phugaon) in the Valley Pu River Cole at an altitude of 4080 m Roughly speaking, in the north of Manaslu and Annapurna massifs.

Route Map to the Pu

A couple of years ago, returning from the track around Manaslu, we tried to slip into Pu, but the bridge across the river Marsiandi polite person with a gun demanded to have special permits are to be acquired only in Kathmandu. special measures have not helped the financial impact and we are frustrated, left Manang in the little restaurant there podmetkopodobnye steaks yaks.

Restaurant in Manang

Steaks was lower than the group members that the latest upset to the point of emergency egress Manang on the plane from the airport Umde immediately to Pokhara, where the stakes were, but there was also fresh fish from the lake Feva, which graced the table.

Plan Umde

Runway Umde

Airline in Umde

That is, the failure to pass on osadochek in Pu and half-eaten steak left.

The resulting frustration is pressed at the same time on the psyche of disappointment and dismay, slowly turning into despair and reducing the effectiveness of life.

To overcome these negative feelings can be only one way - to carry out a pink dream and visit Pu. 
Pu, certainly not Rio, at least in some places and is very similar, but among us there was no Ostap, and get to ny, it seemed more honorable than to fly in Rio.

District favelas in Rio

I must say that the track in the Pu was not final and most important part of our trip, but here, after all covered in the first place you want to describe it is going to the Pu.

The group before leaving Besisahara

First, all the mundane - a bus to Besisahar, Jeep in Syanzhe and after three days of leisurely way (Tal - Danakil - Koto) we Koto (2600 m), at the very covenant of the bridge, where we are proud to present the available the permits.

Parking in the Coto

Of permits different - 2 pieces. Each. Permit in the area of ​​Annapurna and permit (chief) for the passage of Pu and the Naaru.

In which, in a sad lack of anticipation on the road with provisions of loggias, scored a goat (in kind), and ate meat for the week ahead. 
Well, we thought so. morning, passing the Rubicon, I mean Marsiandi, and exclaiming in unison

Alea jacta est

, Ie, throwing the bones in the valley of Nahr, moved north to the distant Tibetan border.

The case is drawing to May 1

The gorge of great beauty, with a pine forest, pine needles on the trail, carved into a clip on the river passes.

The gorge of Nahr

It is true that beauty is not long, as we go north and up, and by the evening, overnight in Dharamsala (3200 m), the forest begins to thin, smooth transition on the name in the alpine meadows, and in fact in the dusty shrubs and remnants of grass, damn yaks and goats. Two sad house for porters and kitchen, that's all Daramsala.Adorned the landscape with their new little yellow and reds tents the firm "North Face".


I was happily surprised that Loben Sherpa always gives us a new track in the tent. 
When asked where he had gone last year, said he pays in climbing expeditions. There's monsters, mountain climbers, they are paying for the difficulties, and we, trekkers, pay for comfort, and, if anything, can do more and do not come. I liked this argument. Although, of course, sometimes, I want to become a climber perebaryvayuschim difficulties. But then I quickly look at the guys, "touching the void," and foolish desire to permanently disappear. By the way, the firm Lobena great rose.

Loben Sherpa

This spring, he organized the two, albeit small, but the expedition to Everest (North and South), an expedition to Kanchenjunga and a handful of expeditions to seventhousanders. But the pride of the season, he certainly believes the organization of our track and really wanted to personally lead sherpyachyu brigade but due to problems under the Kanchenjunga and the need to coordinate all missions with tears in his eyes was in Kathmandu, we entrust Dave (aka Momo, also known as dumplings). The guy glorious, but too pokladistmu.

Dawa and cookies Sozen

The next day, moved to the Qiang (3800 m). The trail is beautiful, dusty places, and before the three strains Qiang sharp descents and climbs in the gorge to enter rivers.

The trail along the gorge of Pu

Fork in the Nar. The trail above the monastery - in the Nar.

On the way to the Qiang

We pass the village JHUNUM

Another descent to the river, where the porters boil rice in a meal

Two more dip, and we have in place

Qiang, village, reviving a lifeless day and the evening herds, were driven to pasture. 
House for kitchens, tents for us. Crane with pure water does not spoil the landscape.


Under the plan outlined by in Odessa, we had to go to spend the night there, and Pu. Admire the beauty, and sleep at an altitude of 4080 meters. 
We have some more because - what else was on the plan.

View from the tent in the Qiang

But the people of Zabuza and putting forward the thesis that the porter should have a rest day, before any further accomplishments, persuaded me to decide to move out in a radial Pu output from the second overnight in Kyaing. Like, if we FIG your saw teeth, we are healthy, like the Yeti, sit in the Pu few hours and get used to the 4,000 m I'm not actively contradicted. Especially as porters, indeed, this track did not show their usual endurance is usually, sadly trailed behind and came to the camp after the group. Showdown with the Sirdar by Momo led only to a more rapid appearance of tents and trunks came late in 2-3 hours. In order that people would not buhtel, I promoted the idea that it is not too shabby porters, and we're all just extremely prepared and fitness.As a team Lebedev. Only backpacks have five kilos, and, well, just animals. But, looking into the eyes of some animal participants understand what I am saying is not very convincing. Very often, his eyes were just closed ...

Povyvelos, with the advent of the Maoists, a glorious tribe of porters. Everyone wants to be MPs, party functionaries, the kraynyak - Sherpas, and wearing backpacks nobody wants. 
We even had a girl - Porter.

Here's a ...

Sherpas (guides), they went with us to the five Momo, too proud. They now do not carry backpacks, white bone, provide security for customers. The point, of course right, but the track is more formal ... But no, sometimes real, but it is ... 
Maybe the guys just did not had the chance to show themselves in full force and effect. 
That's nice!

Incidentally, while we were crawling at the bottom, Apa Sherpa Everest 21 times went. Top of the sweep.Workplace - Everest. Fly! So, in the morning moved into Pu. As soon as you leave the corner of the Qiang - carved into the rock spectacular trail over the river Pu.

The trail, carved into the rock

O traveler, remember you are here, as a tear on an eyelash ...

The gorge is narrow, really nice (for me, the most beautiful in this track), with the ruins of old fortifications, with chortens and stupas, with scenic trails.

The first gate to the Pu

Sometimes, on the slopes of the herd of blue sheep. And now, at an altitude of 4,000 m offers views of the Pu.

Bridge to Pu

The entrance gate to the Pu

The city-fortress of gray stone community by standing on the hillside. 
At the very top - the citadel. 
that says "the glory of the past ..."

Sometime in 2500 Pu Yi lived, now - 250. 
And even a great monastery of monks left - no one brings in Fig.

The trail to the monastery

The monastery courtyard

Roamed the streets breathing antiquity, many abandoned houses who want to escape from civilization - all in Pu. 
crumbling citadel - who now keep the pressure the Chinese?

In general, a little sad.

The only lodge in the Pu. In two rooms at 4-trackers

But the streets are Pu effort coming back. I recommend, there is not a lot of tourists. During our track a single group is not met. And one of our guides and porters never been here before. Compared to the trail (road) around the Annapurna - the lunar surface. the evening returned to the Qiang. The road back (albeit down) everything seemed longer ... To celebrate, scored the next goat. Not blue. Where and why we moved out of ny, maybe next time ... Having read - a bonus.

Doors, windows and stairs Poo