April 19, 2012



Back in the good old days, Tibet and Nepal joined dozens of trade routes passing through the Himalayan passes.

See this wonderful film "The Himalayas"

Then the Chinese cut off to make these traditional routes and hard (up to the shootings) Stopped the movement through the passes.

Nangpa La Pass

Photo Radson

As a result, hundreds of towns and villages situated on the ancient caravan routes, which provided shelter and sustenance for travelers, maintaining trails in passable condition, were out of work, and slowly dying out. One of these towns is the town of Pu (Phu, Phugaon) in the Valley Pu River Cole at an altitude of 4080 m Roughly speaking, in the north of Manaslu and Annapurna massifs.

Route Map to the Pu

A couple of years ago, returning from the track around Manaslu, we tried to slip into Pu, but the bridge across the river Marsiandi polite person with a gun demanded to have special permits are to be acquired only in Kathmandu. special measures have not helped the financial impact and we are frustrated, left Manang in the little restaurant there podmetkopodobnye steaks yaks.

Restaurant in Manang

Steaks was lower than the group members that the latest upset to the point of emergency egress Manang on the plane from the airport Umde immediately to Pokhara, where the stakes were, but there was also fresh fish from the lake Feva, which graced the table.

Plan Umde

Runway Umde

Airline in Umde

That is, the failure to pass on osadochek in Pu and half-eaten steak left.

The resulting frustration is pressed at the same time on the psyche of disappointment and dismay, slowly turning into despair and reducing the effectiveness of life.

To overcome these negative feelings can be only one way - to carry out a pink dream and visit Pu. 
Pu, certainly not Rio, at least in some places and is very similar, but among us there was no Ostap, and get to ny, it seemed more honorable than to fly in Rio.

District favelas in Rio

I must say that the track in the Pu was not final and most important part of our trip, but here, after all covered in the first place you want to describe it is going to the Pu.

The group before leaving Besisahara

First, all the mundane - a bus to Besisahar, Jeep in Syanzhe and after three days of leisurely way (Tal - Danakil - Koto) we Koto (2600 m), at the very covenant of the bridge, where we are proud to present the available the permits.

Parking in the Coto

Of permits different - 2 pieces. Each. Permit in the area of ​​Annapurna and permit (chief) for the passage of Pu and the Naaru.

In which, in a sad lack of anticipation on the road with provisions of loggias, scored a goat (in kind), and ate meat for the week ahead. 
Well, we thought so. morning, passing the Rubicon, I mean Marsiandi, and exclaiming in unison

Alea jacta est

, Ie, throwing the bones in the valley of Nahr, moved north to the distant Tibetan border.

The case is drawing to May 1

The gorge of great beauty, with a pine forest, pine needles on the trail, carved into a clip on the river passes.

The gorge of Nahr

It is true that beauty is not long, as we go north and up, and by the evening, overnight in Dharamsala (3200 m), the forest begins to thin, smooth transition on the name in the alpine meadows, and in fact in the dusty shrubs and remnants of grass, damn yaks and goats. Two sad house for porters and kitchen, that's all Daramsala.Adorned the landscape with their new little yellow and reds tents the firm "North Face".


I was happily surprised that Loben Sherpa always gives us a new track in the tent. 
When asked where he had gone last year, said he pays in climbing expeditions. There's monsters, mountain climbers, they are paying for the difficulties, and we, trekkers, pay for comfort, and, if anything, can do more and do not come. I liked this argument. Although, of course, sometimes, I want to become a climber perebaryvayuschim difficulties. But then I quickly look at the guys, "touching the void," and foolish desire to permanently disappear. By the way, the firm Lobena great rose.

Loben Sherpa

This spring, he organized the two, albeit small, but the expedition to Everest (North and South), an expedition to Kanchenjunga and a handful of expeditions to seventhousanders. But the pride of the season, he certainly believes the organization of our track and really wanted to personally lead sherpyachyu brigade but due to problems under the Kanchenjunga and the need to coordinate all missions with tears in his eyes was in Kathmandu, we entrust Dave (aka Momo, also known as dumplings). The guy glorious, but too pokladistmu.

Dawa and cookies Sozen

The next day, moved to the Qiang (3800 m). The trail is beautiful, dusty places, and before the three strains Qiang sharp descents and climbs in the gorge to enter rivers.

The trail along the gorge of Pu

Fork in the Nar. The trail above the monastery - in the Nar.

On the way to the Qiang

We pass the village JHUNUM

Another descent to the river, where the porters boil rice in a meal

Two more dip, and we have in place

Qiang, village, reviving a lifeless day and the evening herds, were driven to pasture. 
House for kitchens, tents for us. Crane with pure water does not spoil the landscape.


Under the plan outlined by in Odessa, we had to go to spend the night there, and Pu. Admire the beauty, and sleep at an altitude of 4080 meters. 
We have some more because - what else was on the plan.

View from the tent in the Qiang

But the people of Zabuza and putting forward the thesis that the porter should have a rest day, before any further accomplishments, persuaded me to decide to move out in a radial Pu output from the second overnight in Kyaing. Like, if we FIG your saw teeth, we are healthy, like the Yeti, sit in the Pu few hours and get used to the 4,000 m I'm not actively contradicted. Especially as porters, indeed, this track did not show their usual endurance is usually, sadly trailed behind and came to the camp after the group. Showdown with the Sirdar by Momo led only to a more rapid appearance of tents and trunks came late in 2-3 hours. In order that people would not buhtel, I promoted the idea that it is not too shabby porters, and we're all just extremely prepared and fitness.As a team Lebedev. Only backpacks have five kilos, and, well, just animals. But, looking into the eyes of some animal participants understand what I am saying is not very convincing. Very often, his eyes were just closed ...

Povyvelos, with the advent of the Maoists, a glorious tribe of porters. Everyone wants to be MPs, party functionaries, the kraynyak - Sherpas, and wearing backpacks nobody wants. 
We even had a girl - Porter.

Here's a ...

Sherpas (guides), they went with us to the five Momo, too proud. They now do not carry backpacks, white bone, provide security for customers. The point, of course right, but the track is more formal ... But no, sometimes real, but it is ... 
Maybe the guys just did not had the chance to show themselves in full force and effect. 
That's nice!

Incidentally, while we were crawling at the bottom, Apa Sherpa Everest 21 times went. Top of the sweep.Workplace - Everest. Fly! So, in the morning moved into Pu. As soon as you leave the corner of the Qiang - carved into the rock spectacular trail over the river Pu.

The trail, carved into the rock

O traveler, remember you are here, as a tear on an eyelash ...

The gorge is narrow, really nice (for me, the most beautiful in this track), with the ruins of old fortifications, with chortens and stupas, with scenic trails.

The first gate to the Pu

Sometimes, on the slopes of the herd of blue sheep. And now, at an altitude of 4,000 m offers views of the Pu.

Bridge to Pu

The entrance gate to the Pu

The city-fortress of gray stone community by standing on the hillside. 
At the very top - the citadel. 
that says "the glory of the past ..."

Sometime in 2500 Pu Yi lived, now - 250. 
And even a great monastery of monks left - no one brings in Fig.

The trail to the monastery

The monastery courtyard

Roamed the streets breathing antiquity, many abandoned houses who want to escape from civilization - all in Pu. 
crumbling citadel - who now keep the pressure the Chinese?

In general, a little sad.

The only lodge in the Pu. In two rooms at 4-trackers

But the streets are Pu effort coming back. I recommend, there is not a lot of tourists. During our track a single group is not met. And one of our guides and porters never been here before. Compared to the trail (road) around the Annapurna - the lunar surface. the evening returned to the Qiang. The road back (albeit down) everything seemed longer ... To celebrate, scored the next goat. Not blue. Where and why we moved out of ny, maybe next time ... Having read - a bonus.

Doors, windows and stairs Poo

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